Christmas is a time to relax and so I was determined that was actually going to happen this year. I booked a cosy cottage in the Cotswolds and surprised my family by announcing that we were going on a festive break.
This meant that Caroline’s parents, Lin and John – who really are doting grandparents – could spend some quality time with little Harriett. A couple of hours after leaving home near Southampton we arrived at the sandstone coloured Candlemas Cottage nestled in the quaint village of Bourton- on-the-Water in Gloucestershire.
The freshly painted 19th-century property complete with Christmas tree and decorations made for a fantastic base during our week away. Arranged over three floors, this charming cottage had many original features including exposed Cotswold stone and wood paneling as well as modern touches such as flat-screen televisions. While it was persistently cold and wet outside, we snuggled up in front of the fire enjoying entertainment provided by our mischievous daughter.
Lin and John slept in the second bedroom, in the converted loft with its exposed wood beams, while Caroline and I opted for the master bedroom, large enough to also fit Harriett’s travel cot. Comfy beds provided a good night’s sleep for all. We all took our turns with the chores and mucked in together but it was always difficult to get out of the cottage before midday.
However, when we did finally manage it we strolled around Bourton-on-the-Water. The Venice of the Cotswolds has five bridges under which flows the river Windrush – fast and high due to treacherous downpours. At this time of year, there’s a long tradition of a tall Christmas tree being placed in the river and when lit up at night made for a magical scene.
We were a little apprehensive about what might await us in the outlying village of Lower Slaughter. But thankfully at the end of our one-mile amble we arrived at a supremely picturesque village, nestled on the banks of the river Eye. Slaughter actually originates from ‘Slohtre’ in old English meaning muddy place. Records show that it has been inhabited for over 1,000 years. Today, it is home to The Slaughters Country Inn, an imposing and grand 17th-century luxury hotel. This charming house has had many incarnations and was formally aCrammerSchoolforEtonCollege, and certainly some great characters have been associated with it over the years. Traditional beamed ceilings, stone mullioned windows and the magnificent fireplaces combine with contemporary styling. There is nothing better on a damp dreary day than to sup a pint in front of the roaring open fire peering out of the window at the picture postcard landscape. John and I each sampled a pint of Hobgoblin ale, brewed in nearby Wolverhampton by Marstons. There were plenty of good quality dishes from which to choose, too. “The minted lamb pie was full of good quality meat and really enjoyable,” said Lin.
No matter that we couldn’t visit Cirencester (the capital of the Cotswolds) because much of it was badly flooded, there were many other places of interest in this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. We made for Cheltenham, only 20 miles or so from Bourton. “We’ve never been there,” revealed Lin and John as they appreciated the splendour of the Regency buildings, many adorned with Christmas lights. Here, in 1995, sculptor Sophie Ryder produced The Minotaur and the Hare out of bronze. It was originally displayed as a temporary exhibition. When the general public learnt that it was to be removed they raised £50,000 to make it a permanent fixture in the town centre.